Sri Lanka Journal- Andew and Annette Dey: 2/23/2005

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Links from Andrew and Annette:

Pro Photographer Dixie's web site

Mondo Challenge set up Andrew and Annette's trip.

Unawatuna is the village where they're staying and working

In the north, Andrew and Annette are working with Norwegian People's Aid. NPAID is partnered with the German organization called Arbeiter Samariter Bund.

Bensonwood.com

Andrew

At this morning’s meeting of our shelter construction team, Vimal suggests that I visit the local concrete block factory to pay our current balance due, discuss a discrepancy in the billing, and order more blocks. I nominate Vimal to join me.

Vimal is a talkative and engaging coworker. Although officially “just a driver,” he is playing an important role in the coordination of the work at the camp sites. In the late nineties, Vimal and his family had spent three years living in Switzerland. We had heard that he left because of the racial climate. Sometimes in our conversations, he or I will try switching to German if we are having trouble getting a point across. His German is much better than mine.

The drive to the brick factory brings us past paddy fields where harvesting is underway. Vimal explains:

“Rice is harvested three times each year. Water comes from tank that was built long time ago. Long time ago means: over one thousand years.” I had read about these tanks that were built in the ancient kingdoms of Sri Lanka. They are huge man-made irrigation reservoirs that provide water to fields over a wide region. Some of them are so vast, they are said to have been built by giants, or by a mixed workforce of humans and demons.

“One day when we have time, I take you to see this tank. It is second largest in Sri Lanka.”

As we approach the block factory, Vimal tells me that this operation, like most of the larger businesses in the Vanni, is controlled by the LTTE.

“That sounds like communism,” I remark.

“No, not communism. But LTTE controls.” We leave it at that.

The block plant is spread out over a couple of acres enclosed by a barbed wire fence. A guard at the entry gate waves us through. Three metal-roofed sheds each shelter six block-making machines. No pallets, no forklifts, and no cranes, but lots of lean men and women working steadily in the heat. I see what appear to be two water basins the size of basketball courts. They are enclosed by three-foot high concrete walls, and filled with blocks.

Vimal and I enter the small shed that serves as an office. Plastic chairs are brought out for us and placed on the sand floor. A young man who I am guessing joined the LTTE at a tender age sits across from us and describes for my benefit the operations of the plant. Vimal translates:

“This factory has 178 laborers and 65 staff. They make about 5,000 blocks per day. The block-making takes nine days. After forming blocks, they put in sun for one day, and then in water basins. Blocks ready after seven days in water. Basins are drained, and blocks loaded onto trucks.”

It turns out that the “big boss” with whom we would like to speak about past bills and upcoming orders is tied up. I accept the offer of a quick tour.

The block-making machines are familiar to me from the south coast, where Annette and I had visited a smaller but similar operation. When we had looked into buying the machines, Nithila had found them in Kandy for about $450 each. Project Galle had been interested in funding a block-making operation, and we had even considered setting up one in Unawatuna.

The machine operator places a wooden tray onto the machine’s table, and lifts a long handle to lower the block forms onto the tray. The 6”x12” blocks are formed two at a time; 8”x16” blocks are formed individually. A laborer dumps two shovel-fulls of concrete mix into the forms, and the machine vibrates to settle and compact the mix. The operator then lowers the handle to lift the forms off the tray, the laborer removes the tray with the fresh blocks and sets it on the sunny ground, and the process is repeated. I inhale deeply the aroma of fresh masonry. This smell always quickens my pulse.

Back in the office, we settle into our chairs. A teenage boy appears with a tray containing two glasses of warm coke, and a plastic plate with cream crackers. I notice that the block-making machines have gone silent, and I see workers gathering in the shade for lunch.

Eventually the “big boss” appears with a stack of receipt books. After thumbing through the carbon copy receipts of our deliveries and punching a calculator, he hands the books and the calculator to Vimal who does the same. Vimal then reads the information from the receipts to me, including the date, the number of blocks delivered, and the cost. I dutifully record the information, and take a turn with the calculator myself. There’s a question about the delivery on February 5, and issues with the cost of the transportation. Vimal and the boss discuss the discrepancies at length. The boss then sends for the ledger in which the delivery information is summarized, and the information in the ledger inspires further debate. I stare out the doorway and wonder how long it will be before commerce in this land is computerized. The workers outside are sauntering to their positions, and soon the block-making machines have rattled back to life.

Finally Vimal and the block boss agree to table the issue of the one delivery for which we have no record. If the boss can find in the office a signed delivery receipt, then we will pay for that load. Vimal suggests that we order another 10,000 blocks at forty rupees each. I had thought that the price we initially negotiated with the factory was thirty-nine rupees per block. The boss explains that his costs for materials and transportation have risen, and he cannot guarantee that the price of blocks will not go higher. Vimal and I discuss whether we should try to get all of our blocks from the small operation that a Sea Tiger commander has set up near the camp sites. We have been paying 38 rupees apiece for these blocks, which are made entirely by hand, and delivered for free. The drawback is that the “Sea Tiger” operation, as we call it, is capable of producing only about 600 blocks per day, and we are using more than that. The block boss points out that his machine-made blocks are denser and more uniform than handmade blocks. We agree to purchase another 10,000 from him during the next two weeks, and we are on our way.